My unforgettable 5-day visit to Les Baux de Provence

Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions

The drive from Avignon was beautiful, with winding roads lined with olive trees and vineyards. As I neared Les Baux, the thick stone fortress came into sight—dramatically sitting atop a rocky outcropping. It was a walk down memory lane. I settled into my boutique hotel, a lovely stone house with courtyards smelling of lavender and wooden shutters. Once I settled in, I strolled through the narrow, cobbled lanes, lined with art galleries and quaint shops selling locally made soaps, wines, and lavender sachets.

That night’s dinner was at La Cabro d’Or, a Michelin-starred restaurant near the bottom of the valley. I relished a plate of slow-roasted lamb with herbes de Provence, accompanied by a chilled white wine from a nearby vineyard. The flavors were as rich as the history that surrounded me.

Day 2: Visit the Château des Baux

After waking to the sound of cicadas, I drove directly to the Château des Baux, the ruined medieval fortress that looms over the village’s skyline. Exploring its remains, I pictured the splendor of this once-great stronghold, dwelling of warring lords and intrepid knights. The views from the ramparts were panoramic—endless rolling hills and olive groves reaching toward the Alpilles mountains.

One afternoon, I went to the Carrières de Lumières, an incredible art installation in a huge limestone quarry. This year’s exhibition used Van Gogh, with his swirling colors shown on the giant rock walls. It was hypnotic, like walking into one of his paintings.

Day 3: Pockets of Provence Life

To get a taste of rural Provence, I drove a few minutes to an olive farm. I met the owner, a friendly local who gave me a tour of the groves and an explanation of how some of the best olive oils in the region are produced. The different flavors, from peppery to smooth and buttery, were a surprise delight.

I took a cooking class at a family-run inn that afternoon. With a handful of travelers, I learned how to make ratatouille and a fragrant aioli. We dined on our creations in the garden, sipping rosé while cicadas serenaded us. It was a quintessentially Provençal taste—simple, fresh, delicious.

Day 4: Hikes in the Alpilles

Les Baux is in the middle of the Alpilles Regional Natural Park, a hiker’s dream. I went for a morning hike, twisting over rocky trails fragrant with wild thyme and rosemary. This was rugged and peaceful land, with hills and valleys, and bits of vineyard and farmhouse here and there. A shepherd and flock passed by, adding to the ageless beauty of the spectacle.

Inspired by the ubiquitous image of homemade cuisine being served in a rustic, utterly cheery setting, this one at Le Bistrot du Paradou, with a fixed menu, the duck confit was melt-in-mouth perfection, and the house wine poured freely.

Day 5: The Bitter End of a Sweet Thing

On my final day, I woke early to take one last gander through the village before the hordes of tourists descended. I sat on a stone ledge overlooking the valley above the rustling of the olive trees below me and taking in the silence.

Prior to my departure, I stopped by a local vineyard for a tasting. The winemaker rhapsodized about the terroir and traditions behind the wines, and I came away with a bottle of sturdy red to take home as a souvenir.

As I drove away, Les Baux-de-Provence receded in the rearview mirror, but its magic remained in my heart. Five days had flown by in a dream of little-known history, spicy food, and sweeping landscapes. And I knew—I would come back, one day.

Things to know before visiting Les Baux de Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence is one of France’s most picturesque medieval villages, perched atop a rocky plateau in the Alpilles region of Provence. Known for its historic castle, stunning views, and rich cultural experiences, it is a must-visit destination for travelers exploring southern France. Before planning your trip, here are some important things you need to know.

1. Best Time to Visit

Les Baux-de-Provence is a year-round destination, but the best time to visit is during the spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). During these months, the weather is pleasant, and the crowds are manageable. Summer (July and August) can be extremely busy, with high temperatures and an influx of tourists. If you visit in winter, be aware that some attractions and restaurants may have limited hours or be closed.

2. How to Get There

The village does not have a train station, so the best way to reach Les Baux is by car. It is located about 30 minutes from Avignon and Arles and just over an hour from Marseille. Renting a car allows you to explore the surrounding countryside at your own pace. If you prefer public transport, buses run from nearby towns, but they can be infrequent.

3. Parking and Accessibility

Les Baux is a pedestrian-only village, meaning you’ll need to park outside the main entrance. There are several paid parking lots available, but they can fill up quickly during peak season. Arriving early in the day helps secure a spot. Since the village is built on a hill, be prepared for some steep walking on cobbled streets—comfortable walking shoes are essential.

4. Must-See Attractions

The main attraction in Les Baux is the Château des Baux, a ruined medieval fortress that offers breathtaking views of the Alpilles. Another highlight is the Carrières de Lumières, an immersive digital art experience set in a former limestone quarry. The Church of Saint Vincent, with its beautiful stained-glass windows, is also worth a visit. Exploring the narrow streets filled with artisan shops and galleries is a delight in itself.

5. Local Cuisine and Dining

Provençal cuisine is a highlight of any visit to Les Baux. The village and its surroundings are home to excellent restaurants, including Michelin-starred establishments like La Cabro d’Or and L’Oustau de Baumanière. Try local specialties such as lamb with herbes de Provence, ratatouille, and olive-based dishes. Many restaurants offer stunning terrace views, making for an unforgettable dining experience. Reservations are recommended, especially during high season.

6. Wine and Olive Oil Tasting

Les Baux-de-Provence is part of a renowned wine and olive oil-producing region. Many local vineyards offer tastings of their robust reds and refreshing rosés, while olive oil mills provide tours explaining the production process. Sampling these local products is a must-do experience for food and wine lovers.

7. Weather and What to Pack

Summers in Les Baux can be hot, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C (86°F), so lightweight clothing, a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are essential. Spring and autumn are mild, requiring light layers. In winter, temperatures can be cool, and some days may be windy, so bringing a jacket is advisable. Since the village requires a lot of walking, comfortable footwear is a must.

8. Local Etiquette and Cultural Tips

French is the primary language spoken, and while some locals speak English, learning a few basic French phrases will be appreciated. The village has a relaxed, traditional atmosphere, so dress modestly when visiting religious sites. Tipping is not mandatory but is appreciated for good service at restaurants and cafés.

9. Nearby Attractions

If you have extra time, consider exploring nearby towns such as Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, known for its Van Gogh heritage, or Arles, famous for its Roman ruins and lively markets. The Camargue region, with its wild horses and flamingos, is also within a short drive and makes for a unique day trip.

10. Budget and Costs

Les Baux-de-Provence can be an expensive destination, particularly in terms of dining and accommodations. However, there are budget-friendly options, such as casual bistros and guesthouses in nearby villages. Entrance fees for major attractions, like the Château des Baux and Carrières de Lumières, are reasonably priced, but costs can add up, so it’s good to plan accordingly.

By keeping these tips in mind, you can ensure a smooth and memorable visit to Les Baux-de-Provence. Whether you’re interested in history, art, gastronomy, or simply breathtaking landscapes, this charming village has something to offer every traveler.

Useful information of Les Baux de Provence