Two Days in Positano: A Dream Woven in Sunlight and Sea

Day One: Arrival Through the Curves of the Coast

We arrived in Positano by car, having driven from Naples along the sinuous curves of the Amalfi Coast highway. Each twist and turn revealed breathtaking panoramas — turquoise waters glittering under the midday sun, jagged cliffs tumbling into the sea, and little towns clinging to the rocks like colorful secrets.

Parking in Positano is an adventure in itself. Most of the town is pedestrian-only, so we left our car at a designated parking garage high above the center and began our descent on foot — and what a descent it was. Cobblestone paths zigzagged through villas covered in wisteria and jasmine. Terraces dripped in bougainvillea, and every few steps revealed a fresh view that made me stop in awe.

We checked into Villa Rosa, a charming boutique hotel with just enough luxury to feel indulgent without being overly formal. Our room had a private terrace that seemed to hover above the sea — from there, Positano looked like a cascading dream, with the beach at its feet and the Lattari Mountains rising like protective guardians behind.

Lunch on the Beach

After unpacking and freshening up, we wandered downhill to Spiaggia Grande, Positano’s main beach. The colorful umbrellas and sun loungers spread out like a giant mosaic across the gray pebbles, and the air buzzed with the rhythm of summer — laughter, music, and the gentle lapping of waves.

We sat down at Chez Black, a beachfront trattoria shaped like a vintage boat. I ordered the linguine alle vongole, and it arrived perfectly al dente, glistening with olive oil, garlic, and the briny essence of fresh clams. Paired with a chilled glass of Falanghina, it tasted like sunshine on the tongue.

An Afternoon of Wandering

Rather than sunbathe, I spent the afternoon exploring the town’s vertical heart. Positano is not for the faint of foot — it’s a place of endless steps, each one leading to something unexpectedly beautiful. I wandered into tiny ceramic shops where artisans hand-painted lemon motifs onto plates and tiles, admired the effortlessly chic linen clothing hanging outside boutiques, and sampled lemon gelato that rivaled any dessert I’ve ever had.

As golden hour began to bathe the town in honey-colored light, we returned to our terrace at Villa Rosa. I poured two glasses of limoncello, and we sat in silence for a long time, simply soaking in the scene. Boats floated like feathers on the sea. Church bells echoed softly across the cliffs. The town lit up, one lamp at a time, like stars descending from the sky.

Dinner in the Hills

For dinner, we took a shuttle up the steep cliffs to La Tagliata, a family-run agriturismo with sweeping views of the coast. There’s no menu — just a feast of whatever’s fresh from the farm and kitchen. Course after course came out: prosciutto and mozzarella, grilled vegetables, homemade ravioli with ricotta, lemon chicken, roast pork, and then, of course, dessert — a trio of cakes and a final toast with house-made limoncello.

Stuffed, sleepy, and completely content, we returned to our hotel under a blanket of stars, serenaded by the gentle hum of Positano’s midnight charm.

Day Two: The Sea and the Spirit of Positano

I woke with the sun, the light creeping through sheer curtains and spilling across terracotta tiles. The town was just beginning to stir. I made my way to Collina Bakery and ordered a cornetto al limone and a cappuccino, sitting outside on the steps like a local, watching delivery men, tourists, and shopkeepers start their day.

Boat Tour Along the Coast

We’d booked a private half-day boat tour with Blue Star Positano, which departed from the small marina. Our skipper, Marco, welcomed us aboard a sleek wooden gozzo boat with plush cushions and plenty of Prosecco.

The sea was pure glass, the color of sapphires, and the breeze was warm on our faces. We sailed past Praiano, Fiordo di Furore, and Amalfi, stopping to swim in quiet coves where the water turned crystalline turquoise. Marco pointed out ancient watchtowers, sea caves, and villas owned by celebrities. At the Li Galli Islands, we anchored and floated, sipping bubbly and feeling utterly weightless — physically and emotionally.

Afternoon Explorations and Local Flavor

Back in Positano around 1 PM, we were sun-kissed and starving. We grabbed slices of pizza margherita from a deli near the beach — crispy, cheesy, and everything you want post-swim — and sat on a shaded bench overlooking the bay.

In the afternoon, we explored the upper part of Positano, where the tourist crowds thin and life slows. Here, laundry flutters from balconies, children play football in tiny courtyards, and nonnas sit on doorsteps chatting and shelling peas. I wandered into Ceramiche Casola, where I watched artisans paint ceramic plates by hand — I left with a lemon-adorned espresso cup that now lives in my kitchen as a daily reminder of joy.

We stopped by Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, the town’s famous church, with its domed majolica-tiled roof. Inside, the air was cool and hushed. The Black Madonna icon glowed softly in the candlelight, and I sat quietly for a moment, grateful.

Last Sunset and Michelin Magic

For our final evening, we treated ourselves to a sunset aperitivo at Franco’s Bar, known for its panoramic views and design-forward decor. An Aperol Spritz never tasted so glamorous, especially with the sky turning shades of lavender and rose gold.

Dinner was at Zass, the Michelin-starred jewel of Il San Pietro di Positano. This was a splurge, but it felt right. The setting was cinematic: cliffside dining under soft candlelight with the sea crashing far below. I ordered a lemon risotto topped with Amalfi shrimp — the flavors so vibrant and balanced, it felt like tasting the coast itself.

Bittersweet Goodbyes

The next morning, we packed our bags slowly, reluctant to leave. There’s something about Positano that lingers — not just in the photos or the souvenirs, but in the way it makes you feel. Light. Inspired. Alive.

Two days may seem short, but in Positano, time stretches. Each moment feels fuller, each sight more vivid. It’s the kind of place you don’t really leave — you carry it with you.

And just like that, we were back on the winding road, the town shrinking behind us like a sweet dream fading with the morning sun. But I know, without a doubt, I’ll return.

Planning a Trip to Positano?

Here are a few quick travel notes for your own Amalfi escape:

• Best Time to Visit: Late April to early June or September — warm weather, fewer crowds.

• Transportation Tip: Driving is scenic but stressful; consider arriving by ferry or private transfer from Naples.

• Must-Bring Items: Comfortable walking shoes (there are hundreds of stairs), a good sunhat, and a camera with extra memory!

Useful Information on Positano